What's so good about your kits?
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. It looks like you use some DRC Turn Signals and brake lights. Why don't you use their horns and handlebar
switches or other products?
A. It been our experience that DRC turn signals and brake lights are excellent for the purpose of making a dual sport
kit for a reasonable price. Their IC relays are reliable, as are the brake switches. Our main kits have high beam
indicators, of which most states require. The DRC handlebar switch lacks that part. But that is not the main reason; we
prefer the Handlebar switches we sell, as they are FAR MORE RELIABLE THAN THE ONES DRC produces.
If you have an opportunity to hear a DRC horn, it sounds like a horn for a toy. Our horns are real Department of
Transportation approved horns. The 12 volt gel batteries we use are much more reliable than adding 8 AA batteries in
a plastic carrier with springs that wear out after five rides. We make our kits by hand, and do not include bulky
connectors in between wire harnesses. We use factory connectors for certain bikes, i.e. CRFX bikes.
Basically, we take the best of what is out there in the market, i.e., authentic PIAA Headlight Bulbs, FACTORY OEM
WATERPROOF Connectors, DOT horns, etc., and make the best kit for you, at the lowest cost.
Q. Will you sell me the whole DRC kit?
A. We will sell those kits as entry level kits if you insist. Call and order.
Q. I have an idea regarding a headlight, tail light, and/or turn signal stet up I would prefer. Can you help me set up my
custom kit?
A. Absolutely. Call us.
Q. What about those clear Baja Design tail lights?
A. K and S make those as well and we can get them.
Q. What about those headlights and tail lights with the blinkers in them?
A. Those are UFO Oregon headlights and the equivalent tail lights. We used to sell alot of those. Why not? The
headlights are cool looking. We did, until we kept getting requests for replacement turn signals that kept falling
off/out. To top it off, they are not reliable, and though the headlights LOOK sharp, the tail lights, in our opinion, are
ugly. Ask any of your buddies with those lights. They are a good concept but a poor quality product.
Here is some basic information on kits in general:
Before we go there, let us start out with the fact that Honda CRFX bikes are perfect candidates for our dual sport kit in
stock form, and require NO modification.
Regarding bikes like Honda XRs, these bike's stock headlight runs on ALTERNATING CURRENT. Your stock tail light
does as well. Our MINIMALIST Kits run on alternating current, just like your stock bike does. Our LED Running lights, Tail
lights, and/or license plate lights can run on either Alternating Current or Direct Current.
Regarding the STOCK, ALTERNATING CURRENT RUNNING XR, the potential problem comes in when you add the popular
LED turn signals. (Here's JUST AN OPTION - As little as turn signals are going to be on, it makes more sense to just run
incandescent bulbs as turn signals, and use a mechanical flasher. That way you “minimalists” can have a very powerful Dual Sport
kit and not have to add a battery or rewound stator or voltage regulator/rectifier.)
For daily on road drivers, It's not practical to add a gel battery for just your turn signals, without having a charging system in place.
The battery will lose it's power quickly. (DAILY ON ROAD DRIVERS, PLEASE READ BELOW). The problem with the 8 AA plastic
battery pack is that it can't with stand the abuse of off road riding well... Lithium Ion batteries are a thought, except that they are
unstable, and, again, you will be out on a dirt bike... So the best option(s) in this bike's case, (depending on your state and
your needs), would be the following: (1.) Minimalist kit, no turn signals, (2.) Minimalist kit, standard turn signals,
mechanical flasher, but no battery, (3.) Minimalist kit AC Headlight with LED turn signals, IC relay, and uncharged gel
battery, (4.) Minimalist kit, w/ battery voltage regulator/rectifier, gel battery, rewound stator, LED turn signals, and IC
relay.
The following refers to the person that wants a “Daily Driver” 110% ON ROAD, HID, NIGHT RIDING POWERHOUSE type of
kit.
LED turn signals need an INTEGRATED CIRCUIT FLASHER RELAY in order for them to work. INTEGRATED CIRCUIT
FLASHER RELAYS run on DIRECT CURRENT SYSTEMS ONLY, meaning you need to add a battery to your bike.
Yes, you can add resister packs to your right and left turn signal wires of your ALTERNATING CURRENT SYSTEM,(Your
Stock XR), but what people who sell resister packs do not tell you is that these packs create A LOT of heat. That’s
something you do not want.
Adding a battery to your XR is not the problem.
The problem is the STOCK XR power generator or STATOR or LIGHTING COIL on your bike does not have enough
power to charge even the smallest of batteries. Companies will sell you kits and claim they do not need a rewound
stator, and the kits will work. Your headlight will be dim, and you WILL NOT be happy with your purchase. (Of course,
they will “recommend” you get a rewound stator.)
We don’t think that is right.
Sell the right product up front, and keep people happy is our motto.
The bottom line?
For those that want a minimalist kit, buy the basic kit with no turn signals.
For those that want to add flashers to your bike without adding a battery, voltage regulator/rectifier, rewound stator,
chose regular old, NON LED, standard turn signals. Think of it this way; they are only going to be on for seconds of
your ride, anyway, and they will be definitely bright enough with your AC system re: getting you through traffic.
If you have already upgraded your stator or lighting coil, and want to add a battery, voltage regulator/rectifier, etc.,
then it may be an idea to get an integrated circuit flasher relay and LED flashers.
Q. What if I get the minimalist kit and want to add flasher later? Will you guide me?
A. Yes. You will need to run two wires down the length of the wire harness, and add a flasher unit. We will instruct
you how to wire your handlebar switch.
Q. Do I have to run wires if I want to add a front brake switch?
A. Yes. You will have to run wire down the length of the wire harness. We will instruct you.
(If you think you will be getting turn signals and a front brake switch, it’s so much better to just get them (the full kit)
from the beginning. You do not have to hassle with taking the bike apart running the wire harness wires and
potentially shorting out your kit, and the general headache of adding wire, etc. to your kit. Think of it this way; you do
not HAVE to install your turn signals if you do not want to.)
Q. Why run your Dual Sport kit on Alternating Current to begin with?
A. We have a “minimalist” mind set; besides, that’s how your bike was set up to run originally. Some States have very
lenient requirements regarding off to on road conversions, and Alternating Current systems work fine. Some are more
strict, for example, requiring a “30 minute headlight on while the bike is not running”, test. Some will not allow
conversions. Check with your State re: the requirements for conversion.
(BTW, we can set up your bike to pass that “30 minute headlight on while the bike is not running”, test without
PERMANENTLY converting your AC or stock bike to DC. If you need that option, it’s available.)
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. It looks like you use some DRC Turn Signals and brake lights. Why don't you use their horns and handlebar
switches or other products?
A. It been our experience that DRC turn signals and brake lights are excellent for the purpose of making a dual sport
kit for a reasonable price. Their IC relays are reliable, as are the brake switches. Our main kits have high beam
indicators, of which most states require. The DRC handlebar switch lacks that part. But that is not the main reason; we
prefer the Handlebar switches we sell, as they are FAR MORE RELIABLE THAN THE ONES DRC produces.
If you have an opportunity to hear a DRC horn, it sounds like a horn for a toy. Our horns are real Department of
Transportation approved horns. The 12 volt gel batteries we use are much more reliable than adding 8 AA batteries in
a plastic carrier with springs that wear out after five rides. We make our kits by hand, and do not include bulky
connectors in between wire harnesses. We use factory connectors for certain bikes, i.e. CRFX bikes.
Basically, we take the best of what is out there in the market, i.e., authentic PIAA Headlight Bulbs, FACTORY OEM
WATERPROOF Connectors, DOT horns, etc., and make the best kit for you, at the lowest cost.
Q. Will you sell me the whole DRC kit?
A. We will sell those kits as entry level kits if you insist. Call and order.
Q. I have an idea regarding a headlight, tail light, and/or turn signal stet up I would prefer. Can you help me set up my
custom kit?
A. Absolutely. Call us.
Q. What about those clear Baja Design tail lights?
A. K and S make those as well and we can get them.
Q. What about those headlights and tail lights with the blinkers in them?
A. Those are UFO Oregon headlights and the equivalent tail lights. We used to sell alot of those. Why not? The
headlights are cool looking. We did, until we kept getting requests for replacement turn signals that kept falling
off/out. To top it off, they are not reliable, and though the headlights LOOK sharp, the tail lights, in our opinion, are
ugly. Ask any of your buddies with those lights. They are a good concept but a poor quality product.
Here is some basic information on kits in general:
 | (In this next section, we'll use the FAQ for bikes that come with headlights already; in this case, on Honda XR | |
| bikes.) |
Before we go there, let us start out with the fact that Honda CRFX bikes are perfect candidates for our dual sport kit in
stock form, and require NO modification.
Regarding bikes like Honda XRs, these bike's stock headlight runs on ALTERNATING CURRENT. Your stock tail light
does as well. Our MINIMALIST Kits run on alternating current, just like your stock bike does. Our LED Running lights, Tail
lights, and/or license plate lights can run on either Alternating Current or Direct Current.
Regarding the STOCK, ALTERNATING CURRENT RUNNING XR, the potential problem comes in when you add the popular
LED turn signals. (Here's JUST AN OPTION - As little as turn signals are going to be on, it makes more sense to just run
incandescent bulbs as turn signals, and use a mechanical flasher. That way you “minimalists” can have a very powerful Dual Sport
kit and not have to add a battery or rewound stator or voltage regulator/rectifier.)
For daily on road drivers, It's not practical to add a gel battery for just your turn signals, without having a charging system in place.
The battery will lose it's power quickly. (DAILY ON ROAD DRIVERS, PLEASE READ BELOW). The problem with the 8 AA plastic
battery pack is that it can't with stand the abuse of off road riding well... Lithium Ion batteries are a thought, except that they are
unstable, and, again, you will be out on a dirt bike... So the best option(s) in this bike's case, (depending on your state and
your needs), would be the following: (1.) Minimalist kit, no turn signals, (2.) Minimalist kit, standard turn signals,
mechanical flasher, but no battery, (3.) Minimalist kit AC Headlight with LED turn signals, IC relay, and uncharged gel
battery, (4.) Minimalist kit, w/ battery voltage regulator/rectifier, gel battery, rewound stator, LED turn signals, and IC
relay.
The following refers to the person that wants a “Daily Driver” 110% ON ROAD, HID, NIGHT RIDING POWERHOUSE type of
kit.
LED turn signals need an INTEGRATED CIRCUIT FLASHER RELAY in order for them to work. INTEGRATED CIRCUIT
FLASHER RELAYS run on DIRECT CURRENT SYSTEMS ONLY, meaning you need to add a battery to your bike.
Yes, you can add resister packs to your right and left turn signal wires of your ALTERNATING CURRENT SYSTEM,(Your
Stock XR), but what people who sell resister packs do not tell you is that these packs create A LOT of heat. That’s
something you do not want.
Adding a battery to your XR is not the problem.
The problem is the STOCK XR power generator or STATOR or LIGHTING COIL on your bike does not have enough
power to charge even the smallest of batteries. Companies will sell you kits and claim they do not need a rewound
stator, and the kits will work. Your headlight will be dim, and you WILL NOT be happy with your purchase. (Of course,
they will “recommend” you get a rewound stator.)
We don’t think that is right.
Sell the right product up front, and keep people happy is our motto.
The bottom line?
For those that want a minimalist kit, buy the basic kit with no turn signals.
For those that want to add flashers to your bike without adding a battery, voltage regulator/rectifier, rewound stator,
chose regular old, NON LED, standard turn signals. Think of it this way; they are only going to be on for seconds of
your ride, anyway, and they will be definitely bright enough with your AC system re: getting you through traffic.
If you have already upgraded your stator or lighting coil, and want to add a battery, voltage regulator/rectifier, etc.,
then it may be an idea to get an integrated circuit flasher relay and LED flashers.
Q. What if I get the minimalist kit and want to add flasher later? Will you guide me?
A. Yes. You will need to run two wires down the length of the wire harness, and add a flasher unit. We will instruct
you how to wire your handlebar switch.
Q. Do I have to run wires if I want to add a front brake switch?
A. Yes. You will have to run wire down the length of the wire harness. We will instruct you.
(If you think you will be getting turn signals and a front brake switch, it’s so much better to just get them (the full kit)
from the beginning. You do not have to hassle with taking the bike apart running the wire harness wires and
potentially shorting out your kit, and the general headache of adding wire, etc. to your kit. Think of it this way; you do
not HAVE to install your turn signals if you do not want to.)
Q. Why run your Dual Sport kit on Alternating Current to begin with?
A. We have a “minimalist” mind set; besides, that’s how your bike was set up to run originally. Some States have very
lenient requirements regarding off to on road conversions, and Alternating Current systems work fine. Some are more
strict, for example, requiring a “30 minute headlight on while the bike is not running”, test. Some will not allow
conversions. Check with your State re: the requirements for conversion.
(BTW, we can set up your bike to pass that “30 minute headlight on while the bike is not running”, test without
PERMANENTLY converting your AC or stock bike to DC. If you need that option, it’s available.)
| Let's talk about bikes that come stock w/out headlights - Generally, you need a lighting coil added. You can | |
| follow the above information regarding the choices of kits available. |
